She gets up there through pure determination.
First, she climbs the rabbit cage (used to be the bird cage before I moved it into the living room) and forges across the roof of holes and sagginess
Sidenote: it's hilarious to watch them walk across this. I have to get a video one day.
Then, she makes her way onto the fridge and around the microwave
From there a simple jump to the shelves and voila, a cat haven... full of breakable objects but nothing's happened yet *cross fingers*
Usually, she jumps onto the 'cat shelf' by the window
but that day I was using the slow cooker so she decided to show off and ask me for praise.
And, yes, every time she goes up there she must look all smug (especially when she's inspecting the dishes and I'm watching anxiously). She also usually doesn't jump onto the cat shelf until I've acknowledged her feat of amazingness. If the slow cooker is missing (and when the roast pot wasn't on the microwave) she would nap up there, giving me a proud look every once in a while (and a smug one to Sugar who is afraid of 'up there'.