The best bones are chicken necks, backs, and wings.
Any small bones will do, chicken bones are a great size, as are most bones from Cornish game hens (not the thicker leg bones, but everything else), entire quail, ribs from pigs, rabbit bones (again, except the thicker leg bones), etc. Basically, if you can easily bend/break the bone with one hand it'll be safe to feed once the cat knows how to eat bones.
You can feed organs from whatever mix of prey you want - chicken, duck, turkey, cow, rabbit, whatever you can get a hold of.
if you don't want to supplement you will NEED to feed a variety of organs from a variety of animals. If you can only get meat or organs from a few animals (pork, beef, chicken) then you'll have to supplement.
Also, if you feed raw, you are going to need to supplement nutritionally - with taurine powder and also with a nutrient supplement such as Alnutrin,
If you can get enough variety and are careful about what you're feeding you don't have to supplement, but until you can properly transition your kitty and are sure he's going to eat what you're giving him supplementing or feeding canned food sometimes is a good idea.
I would suggest getting rid of the kibble though - kibble and raw digest at different rates, and can cause digestive issues if they're feed too close together. I'd switch your kitty to wet food and raw until he's a more experienced raw feeder.
Thanks for the tips, Lakota. By the way, why add supplements, specially why add taurine? Isn't the taurine in the meat exactly one of the main reasons why raw meat diet is much better than canned and dry food?
Taurine comes from dark muscles - the harder working the muscle is, the more taurine it has. Taurine degrades when meat is ground, and when frozen. If you feed heart fairly often you won't need to supplement the taurine, but some people are more comfortable with supplementing. Taurine is important, it is necessary for heart and eye health. Personally, I feed heart once a week and 3 of my cats eat 'dark' meats (beef, game meats, etc) 2-3 times per week, so I'm comfortable not supplementing. However, some cats won't or can't eat dark meats - like my 4th cat. She gets canned food when they get dark meats so she's still getting the appropriate nutrients even though she can't eat dark meat.
I feed ground raw meat/bone/organs, so I thaw it in the fridge and mix with warm water before feeding. For chunks, you can always float it in a bag in a tub of warm water to bring it to temperature.
I'm lazy. My cats eat 3/4 lb per day between the 4 of them, my food comes in 1lb baggies. I grab 4, thaw three in the fridge, and the fourth gets thawed in a bowl of warm water for about 4-5 hours. Ish. It's not an exact science, but as long as it's not sitting out for +12hrs it'll be fine. (TBH cats have a much better digestive system than ours - I don't recommend leaving uncovered raw meat out for that long, but in a plastic baggie, in a bowl of water...it'll be fine because the bacteria can't get to it.)
I comfortably feed them food that's been in the fridge for 5 days, sometimes 6 days. However, my cats have been raw fed for 7 years and have very robust digestive flora. With a new raw feeder you need to 'baby' their system a bit - feed their food fresh and pick it up after an hour at the most. Don't feed anything older than 4 days - or thawed for 4 days - or that smells even the littlest bit off.
Most cats prefer their raw food at 'body temperature'. Aka freshly killed mouse temp. The best way to achieve this is a warm water bath for the meal pre-feeding. Use tap water that's hot, but not hot enough to start cooking the meat and let the meal sit for about 10 minutes.
I never recommend microwaving raw food, as that's cooking and generally defeats the purpose. If I've been a bad mommy and forgotten to thaw their dinner I'll sit the baggie in a bowl of water, then microwave it on 'thaw' for 5 minutes at a time, rotating and checking to make sure it's not getting too hot.
I was thinking of maybe just popping an omega 3 capsule on his food or feed him some oily fish once a week to make up for the lack of that vitamin, but I thought that the organs and the bones would actually be enough to take care of everything else. I even read somewhere in this forum a few hours ago that frankenprey didn't require supplement if done right...
If you feed fish every 2 weeks or so (small fish like sardines canned in water) as a treat along side his meal you won't have to worry about adding fish oil to the food.
If you feed enough variety you won't need to supplement. My cats get:
-chicken (rarely, picky Torri hates it)
-cornish game hen
-egg (1 egg, beaten and spilt 4 ways once a month)
I consider that a bare minimum of variety for safe, un-supplemented raw feeding. I'm very lucky to be able to offer than much variety, and I work hard for it (collecting from hunter friends, great local supplier for cat food, online ads for game meats, relationship with local organic farmers), but you need to be able to find a way for it to work out. A big freezer helps