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Discussion Starter #1
When I get back from a week's vacation - Aug. 11th, - I am going to try and trap my little feral cat, Ben. She has food all day long, and is also very smart, I think she will be hard to trap. I am bringing her right to the vets, for deworming and defleaing, also blood tests. I have a room all set up for her. She comes whenever I call, and has been coming closer and closer to about 2 feet, but she still can't be touched. I just sit quietly and talk with her, she rubs her head on everything and does the "happy feet" when I talk to her, which is at least 6 times a day. Don't know how she will be when I bring her in, what should I expect??
I have had the trap out for 2 months, not set, and she rubs her head on that too. When I get back I will wire it open, but not set, so she can get used to that, then after about a week I will set it. Please any tips would be greatly appreciated!!!!
Thanks!
Sally
 

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try catnip or cat treats, to get her closer. once you can pet her, DO NOT grab her. That will diminish any trust she has. you could try getting her in a box, And when she walks in, close the flap to get her inside.Then, go inside and keep her in there until you go to a vet.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think I will be able to pet her, any movement I make when she is close to me, she will run away, so I do not make any movement toward her at all. I think it will have to be a trap!
 

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Most important is to be sure and make a vet appointment before you trap. Some vets dont want to work with ferals. Most low cost spay neuter clinic are very familiar with ferals. S/N ferals are part of their mission.

This is a good over view.
Humane Trapping Instructions

I put ferals in my garage when holding them over. Make sure it isnt too hot or too cold! Do not open the trap to give it water. Use a spout of a watering can or such. Keep the trap covered while waiting to take them to the vet and home again from the vet. It makes them feel safer.

Important to get cheap plastic picnic table cloths or garbage bags for your car for under the trap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have talked with the vet tech at the vets, and she said I could bring her over, and leave her for a few hours and they would do all deworming etc.
Before I start to trap her, I will go over there and make sure that everything is a go. I want to do this all at once, I don't know how long it would be before I would get another chance to do this for her. She will come home right into her new "room". Is this the way to go??
Sally
 

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I'm trying to understand what your asking. Sorry I'm not clear on it. Once she is in the trap you want to have everything done that you can, while she is at the vet. This is one trip and then home to your house. Letting her recover in a bathroom preferably and start socializing her in there.

You are taking this kitty to the vet to spay her. While she is knocked out they can check her ears for mites, check for fleas and treat for those if you ask them to. They tend to want to give the rabies shot at the time she is knocked out.

You might want to ask them to clip her nails. Do a general wellness check while they have her.

When we deworm we put it in the cats food to ingest. I'm not sure whether your asking if they will give you the med to put in the food while your at the vet or what? Sorry I'm so obtuse..
 

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if i understand what you are asking;


personally, i prefer to have the cat stay overnight at the vets office just in case anything should arise.

as far as once she is home, i prefer that the cat is put into a large dog cage (preferably the type with two doors) for the socialization. the cage should be raised up a few feet off the floor, around waist level. drape an old sheet so that it covers the top, rear, and most of the two sides of the cage, this will help her feel safer. you can place the food and water dishes, a small litter box and a hard shelled cat carrier in the cage. inside the carrier put some soft towels on the floor, she will be spending lots of time inside her "den" since she will be very scared. i also like to put some towels on top of the carrier (secured with two sided tape) so that when she wants to come out she has another comfy place to lay.

when you need to open the cage to give food or clean the litter box she will probably hide in her den. before you open the door of the cage use a yardstick to shut the door of the den and then open the cage and secure the carrier door. you don't want to take any chance that she will lunge at you.


some other good tips - Stanford Cat Network | Socializing Feral Cats and Kittens


good luck and thanks for what you are doing!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you for all the replys. This little kitty (Ben), that I have been feeding for a year is already spayed, her ear is tipped. So someone must have trapped her before and let her back out. I watched and fed her all winter last year, and this year I want to bring her in. She is comfortable with me, but does not want to be touched. The tips I need are - how to trap her, she is very smart and I think I may have a hard time getting her to go in the cage. Once she is in there she will be going to the vets for exactly what you said - deworming, claws clipped etc. But it is actually getting her in the cage that concerns me!!!
Sally
 

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Actually if you are putting her in a large wire dog kennel then put the trap in the door way of the kennel, tip and they will scoot out into the cube hiding place, ideally I will have a friend with a large towel in the open spots around the door so thee cat doesnt try to bolt out the door,

Ive only had one cat escape during cage transfer, early on doing TNR. The cat ran straight up the wall (gods truth) and down then into a closet with rafters, going straight up that wall. It was a challenge geetting him back to the kennel!

If your really unsure of doing the transfer then bring the kennel to the vet and let them put her in it after they are done with her.
 

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The tips I need are - how to trap her, she is very smart and I think I may have a hard time getting her to go in the cage.
my "go-to" bait has been sardines in water, so far it has had a 100% success rate. if not sardines, basically the stinkier the better. do not put much in the trap, just enough to get her to enter. you don't want her to have a full stomach in case she needs to be sedated.

But it is actually getting her in the cage that concerns me!!!
Sally
have the vet place her in a carrier that you will use as her "den". that way you can bring her home and place it (with her inside) right into the dog cage and open the door after it is in position.


one other thing that i find useful, have a backup carrier. i have found it very helpful to be able to take the cat out (while in the carrier) so i could clean the cage floor and put a different carrier (with clean towels in it) into the cage and let her back in.
 
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